When I shared with my family that I was planning a two-week trip to Israel, the immediate reaction from those who had never visited was consistent: "Isn't it dangerous to visit Israel? Isn't Tel Aviv risky? Will you be safe in Jerusalem?"
To add to their concerns, I scheduled my trip during a time of heightened tensions at the Temple Mount in Jerusalem involving both Jewish and Muslim communities.
However, those familiar with the country had heartily recommended it to me for its cultural richness, emphasizing how secure they felt during their stays.
Traveling to a region with ongoing tensions is something I approach with caution. Staying informed is crucial to avoid unnecessary risks. The challenge lies in reconciling the urge to explore with potential hazards, differentiating between "hearsay" and actuality.
In this piece, I aim to provide tangible insights on the risks associated with traveling in Israel to help you make an informed choice. I'll also share several handy resources like websites and apps.
Tel Aviv, Jerusalem: How risky is it to visit Israel?
When you start your research, you'll often come across a range of sometimes conflicting views, which can further add to the confusion.
- Your own government's position (Foreign Affairs Departments frequently release advisories about safe or risky travel destinations).
- The perspective of the Israeli government.
- Opinions from locals residing in Israel.
- Feedback from frequent tourists to Israel.
- Media reports and narratives.
- Advisories from other international governments.
- Views of travel agencies.
This suggests that absolutely no one can guarantee your safety or unequivocally advise against a trip to Israel.
No one can definitively state if a visit to Tel Aviv is perilous, or if journeying to Jerusalem is overly hazardous. However, it's essential to consider the factual circumstances to arrive at your own decision.
Differences in Perception
Media portrayal can sometimes offer an exaggerated perspective of a country that seems daunting from afar but less so once you're there. For instance, during the peak of the Yellow Vests protests in France, I traveled abroad. Locals spoke of France as if it had turned into a battlefield, but from my vantage point (and that of my colleagues and friends), the primary inconvenience was the weekend closure of metro stations in Paris!
Being in Europe for instance, our perception of the Middle East can often be outdated or skewed. When I mentioned traveling to Israel, several people admitted to imagining it as underdeveloped. They were surprised when I shared details like the average salary in Israel (12771 shekels, or roughly $3,318/£2,656) and spoke of the bustling economy and towering skyscrapers in Tel Aviv.
However, we must acknowledge our relative distance from active conflict zones. War is something many of us see only on TV, feeling safe because "it's far away." But in Israel, the countries or regions frequently making headlines are nearby. Due to its compact size, you can drive across Israel in just a few hours. It's only natural for us to feel more threatened by proximate events than those thousands of miles away.
Still, this doesn't imply that tanks will suddenly storm Tel Aviv's beaches or that you'll be caught in a bombing during a leisurely park stroll.
We should recognize these perceptual disparities as they can deter potential trips, even when the in-person experience differs dramatically from distant assumptions.
It's also vital to remember: regardless of precautions, sometimes you might just find yourself in the wrong place at the wrong time, whether in Israel or anywhere else.
Risk Levels Vary
Not every part of Israel is equally risky. Mentioning locations like the "Gaza Strip" or "Syrian border" should quickly highlight that these aren't ideal tourist destinations.
On the flip side, Tel Aviv is renowned for its beaches, abundant sunshine, vibrant markets, modernity, and economic vitality. If you have Jewish friends, you might have seen Instagram photos of them sipping pomegranate juice on the street or wandering the quaint cobblestone streets of old Jaffa. Indeed, these images hardly paint a picture of conflict or warfare!
However, some cities present a more ambiguous situation. Take Jerusalem, for instance. It's a major tourist destination, yet it's also a sacred city where diverse religious communities converge. This often leads to heightened tensions, especially in East Jerusalem, which isn't typically recommended for tourists.
I personally chose to stay in Tel Aviv due to these considerations. It feels less vulnerable than some other cities. Plus, there's an extensive range of accommodations available Booking.com, for instance, offer free cancellation, as do certain airlines for flights.
Here's the Israel paradox: A significant number of tourists, as well as Jewish individuals visiting family or friends, frequent Israel. This results in hotels filling up astonishingly quickly. For context, during my stay, hotels were 98% occupied, largely because I made last-minute reservations due to uncertainty about my holiday plans.
Booking on short notice might not be the wisest choice. However, opting for flexible booking terms gives you the leeway to reevaluate your travel decisions if tensions escalate.
To stay informed, refer to the travel advisories from your government. You can check the travel advice from the UK government or https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/israel-west-bank-and-gaza-travel-advisory.html" target="_blank">from the US government, for instance. This provides a chance to view the situation from multiple angles.
It's worth noting that some governments can be more cautious in their advisories than others. While frequent travelers might be aware of this, the average tourist might not.
2. Enroll in Your Country's "Smart Travel" Program
Many countries offer a service that enables their citizens to register their travel plans with the government when traveling abroad. Examples include the Ariane platform in France and the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) in the USA.
This service allows them to send you notifications in case of political unrest or potential security threats.
If you're planning to visit more sensitive regions (such as the Palestinian territories), it's a good idea to register with such a service, which is typically free of charge.
3. Consider Hiring a Guide in Certain Areas
If you're apprehensive or uncertain about the safety of particular tourist spots, don't hesitate to hire a guide, even if just for peace of mind.
While we can't always avoid all risks, being guided ensures you don't inadvertently venture into dangerous zones out of unfamiliarity.
The Abraham Tours agency comes highly recommended. They provide trips from Tel Aviv or Jerusalem to many of Israel's prime tourist destinations, particularly within the Palestinian territories (Ramallah, Bethlehem, Jericho).
You'll likely encounter numerous ads for the Bein Harim agency, a major player in Israel with pervasive marketing efforts. They also offer a wide array of excursions. However, I found their customer service to be lacking (they didn't respond to my inquiries during trip planning). Nevertheless, they cover some locations that Abraham Tours does not.
I opted for guided tours for a few trips, which not only allowed me to meet wonderful fellow travelers (including Marie, who resides in the same city as my workplace—truly, it's a small world!) but also sidestep certain logistical challenges (for instance, when transitioning from Israel to the Palestinian territories, a vehicle change is necessary).
4. Familiarize Yourself with Missile Defense Protocols
All of Israel's territory is potentially vulnerable to missile strikes. It's essential to be informed on how to respond.
Firstly, there are regions in the country where missile launches are infrequent (Tel Aviv being a prime example!) and Israel boasts an air defense system, meaning most missiles are "neutralized" before they even reach the ground.
Moreover, the very design of the country's infrastructure now takes these security threats into account. There are what's known as merkhav mugan, mandatory fortified spaces that all new buildings must incorporate. These are essentially bomb and chemical weapon-resistant shelters featuring concrete walls and ceilings, exceptionally thick floors (up to 12 inches), and reinforced steel doors and windows.
To clarify:
- The mamad is an "individual" safe room included in all modern buildings.
- The mamak is a shared shelter for residents of a single building.
- The miklat refers to a public shelter.
Should you hear an alarm siren (a sound that fluctuates in pitch), it's imperative to seek shelter immediately. If no shelter is accessible, shut all doors and windows and position yourself on the floor against a wall, ensuring you're not facing any windows.
The duration between the sounding of the siren and a potential "explosion" varies depending on your location.
I strongly recommend reviewing these guidelines. For added peace of mind, you can also download the list of public shelters in your destination city from the same site.
Furthermore, consider downloading the "Tzeva Adom" (RedAlert) app, which promptly notifies users of imminent threats on their mobile devices.
The potential for missile attacks isn't something travelers typically want to dwell on when planning a vacation. However, it's better to be informed in advance than be caught off guard, panicking without direction if such a situation arises.
I know someone who experienced an alert during their visit, prompting me to gather essential information, "just in case." On the other hand, I'm acquainted with individuals who travel to Israel multiple times a year and have never encountered an alert. It's essential to maintain a sense of perspective.
During my stay, there were several rocket attacks emanating from the Gaza Strip, targeting southern Israel and the Ashdod region. Yet, there were no alerts in Tel Aviv, and I felt entirely safe. Here's how the alerts appeared on the Tzeva Adom app:
Israel: A Once-In-A-Lifetime Journey
From a personal perspective, I traveled to Israel fully aware of the risks but took all necessary precautions. I heeded the advice of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, registered with the French government's Ariane platform, read missile defense guidelines, kept up with the news, and coordinated parts of my travels with guides. I knew Israel could be unpredictable, but not significantly more so than France.
Yet, I chose to venture beyond the confines of a Tel Aviv hotel to explore Israel. It's a transformative destination—a land of historical and religious significance, particularly important to me given my deep respect for Judaism and the memory of the Holocaust.
Mishaps can happen anywhere, even in France.
So, I explored extensively: journeying to Jerusalem, exploring Acre, Rosh Hanikra (near the Lebanon border), visiting the Sea of Galilee with the Golan Heights in the backdrop, discovering Haifa, meeting kibbutz residents, bathing in the Dead Sea, taking a cable car to Masada, and experiencing Nazareth, Bethlehem, and Capernaum. I crossed checkpoints between Israel and Palestine, shopped in Ramallah, explored the ruins of Jericho, and even witnessed a military induction ceremony at the Wailing Wall.
A Genuine Sense of Safety
At no point during my travels did I feel endangered
. I rode trains and buses, often returning late, without any disturbances. In conclusion, there seems to be a vast disparity between the media's portrayal of Israel and the actual ground reality.
One advantage of visiting a country like Israel is that they have far more advanced security measures against terrorism than we do in my own country. In many locations, you'll undergo security checks reminiscent of those at airports; public gathering spots are heavily guarded by the military, and airport security procedures are more extensive than in most places.
France, in contrast, became acutely aware of the "terrorist threat" relatively recently. Israel has contended with it for a much longer period and is, therefore, better equipped to handle it.
A resident of Jerusalem once shared with me that, for 99.9% of the year, it's a delightful city to live in. It's just that 0.1% when, in his words, "extremists encounter other extremists, one individual provokes another, and tensions escalate."
That said, I never felt as endangered as I had initially anticipated. I believe those who followed my journey via my Instagram stories could see that my everyday experiences were largely untroubled :)
Navigating the Airport
At the airport, you might face a barrage of questions, particularly upon departure. It's advised to arrive at least 3 hours before your flight, given the potentially lengthy security processes (though this isn't always the case).
For instance, every passenger's hand luggage is meticulously screened. The questioning can be intensive and rapid (likely a strategy to prevent people from fabricating answers). I was asked about my activities during my stay, my reason for choosing Israel, my accommodations, my companions, how I financed the trip, if I had any connections in Israel, and if I had visited the Palestinian territories. Since I had, they delved deeper into my reasons and activities there.
However, the trip was profoundly enriching in terms of experiences, providing a fresh perspective when hearing about these places in the news. I hope this article, if not fully answering your questions, offers a clearer insight into the on-the-ground reality.
