Deauville
, located in the Calvados region of France, is a favored weekend getaway, especially for those residing in Paris! Boasting a sprawling beach and a plethora of nearby attractions, from casinos to scenic walks, this Normandy beach resort is a perfect spot for a rejuvenating retreat.
But what to do in Deauville? In this guide, I'll walk you through a variety of activities and sites, plus recommend some top-notch restaurants and hotels to aid in planning your journey.
Where is Deauville Located?
Deauville is a quaint commune with a population of merely 4,000 residents nestled in the Calvados region of Normandy. The Trouville-Deauville train station offers direct connections from Paris, so every weekend, and particularly when the weather is pleasant, it's a hot spot for urbanites craving a dose of fresh sea breeze!
Like many other beach resorts, Deauville presents two sides: one bustling with activity and another serene one, best explored during the off-peak seasons.
Here's Deauville's location pinpointed on a map:
You can check out Deauville's weather forecast online.
Why is Deauville So Renowned?
Deauville epitomizes luxury and refined living: opulent palaces, golf courses, magnificent villas, thalassotherapy, high-end boutiques, a marina, racecourses, a casino, and most notably, the iconic American Film Festival that draws major celebrities.
Celebrities whose names grace the renowned seafront walkway, promenade des Planches.
This opulence is deeply rooted in the town's history. In the 19th century, France recognized (slightly later than most!) the health benefits of seawater. The aristocrats began utilizing it for therapeutic purposes, and the affluent class often left cities during weekends (especially Paris) for seaside getaways.
The seaside retreat trend catalyzed the growth of several coastal towns. For instance, Trouville catered to the aristocracy before its neighboring Deauville was meticulously designed. The town's structure was influenced by the Haussmann-esque layout emblematic of Paris, ensuring that Parisians felt right at home. Wealthy families were quick to invest in this promising locale.
In 1975, André Halimi, then editor-in-chief of the weekly Pariscope, which covered cultural events in and around Paris, conceived the American Film Festival in Deauville. The festival aimed to spotlight American films that weren't necessarily introduced to French audiences.
Lionel Chouchan, a seasoned publicist who had already created similar festivals, joined him. With financial backing from the city and the influential Lucien Barrière group, the duo leveraged their connections, convincing major film studios to participate, with the stipulation that the festival wouldn't host competitions like Cannes. Their reputable standing in the U.S. further propelled the festival's success.
Deauville's prime location is undeniably alluring. The town boasts all the necessary facilities to accommodate celebrities at their finest. Additionally, American visitors appreciate the ease with which they can tour Paris and also visit the historically significant D-Day beaches, a poignant site for many.
Consequently, over the years, the coastal town has upheld its stylish and glamorous persona.
Experiencing Deauville
Deauville boasts a myriad of recreational activities.
The Beach
Deauville's claim to fame is its pristine sandy beach, spanning over approximately 1.24 miles. It's impeccably maintained.
This picturesque region of France, known as the Côte Fleurie, often feels the coastal winds, resulting in inviting waves for enthusiasts. For those seeking adventure, there's no shortage of activities! Between the nautical centers of Deauville and Trouville, you'll discover opportunities for windsurfing, sand yachting, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, towed buoy rides, flyboarding, and jet-skiing. They're popular activities for stag and hen parties globally!
The beach spans a vast area, making it easy for visitors to locate their spot with the help of flags and markers. The beach is meticulously maintained near the top, becoming more naturalistic and filled with tiny shells as you approach the water's edge. Don't forget your sandals!
It's a haven for leisurely walks, captivating sunsets, and especially, horseback riding. Deauville is synonymous with equestrian pursuits. Local riding schools typically offer beach rides before 10 am and after 7 pm. Check out La Mangeoire's website to get an idea of pricing.
Deauville's Promenade and Umbrellas
Deauville is renowned for Les Planches, a scenic boardwalk by the beach flanked by Art Deco bathing cabins. In the 90s, Anne d'Ornano, Deauville's mayor at the time, had the names of illustrious directors and actors engraved on this walkway, intertwining the legacy of the Deauville Film Festival with the promenade.
Procuring one of the town's coveted 450 bathing cabins often involves a wait. Rentals range from $175 to $305 (or £125 to £220) monthly, depending on whether it's equipped with a shower or merely a foot rinse. This is the price for savoring a slice of coastal luxury! Daily cabin rentals are also available.
Another iconic sight in Deauville: its vibrant umbrellas, tied with the signature "Deauvillais knot". These are crafted locally and are available for daily, weekly, or fortnightly rentals. You can find comprehensive details (pricing, rental options, and more) on the Deauville website.
The town even has professionals, known as "parasoliers", who assist visitors by setting up these umbrellas.
Deauville American Film Festival
The festival takes place during the first two weeks of September. It's open to the general public, and attendees have the option to purchase either a day pass or one for the entire festival duration. There's also an option to purchase tickets for special events, such as the opening and awards ceremonies.
For details and reservations, simply visit their website.
Swimming and Thalassotherapy
Deauville is an ideal location for a thalassotherapy retreat. Beyond the hotel spas, there's a dedicated thalasso center offering treatments such as algae wraps, jet showers, and affusion massages. It also boasts a pool equipped with jets and massage benches. All the treatment prices can be found online.
In my opinion, this thalasso doesn't quite measure up to the Cures Marines establishment in Trouville. The latter has more modern facilities and offers a more scenic view.
A short distance (few dozen yards) from the thalasso, you'll find an Olympic-size seawater swimming pool featuring a unique shell-shaped design.
Horse Racing
The town boasts two racecourses, hosting frequent races (sometimes up to forty during the summer season). Equestrian enthusiasts will undoubtedly find Deauville a paradise with its abundant riding schools, courses, and horse-purchasing opportunities.
Yet, even if equestrian sports aren't your passion, witnessing a horse race is a must-do experience. Don't miss out!
Discover Deauville
In Deauville, every street showcases a villa more exquisite than the last, echoing the time when artists and the elite flocked to Normandy for its famous "sea baths." Enjoy a leisurely walk and marvel at the architectural wonders. The most renowned of these is the Villa Strassburger.
Constructed in 1907, it stands on the grounds of the former Ferme du Coteau, which was owned by Gustave Flaubert's family for seven decades. The villa is named after its past proprietor, Ralph Strassburger, an American tycoon with an ardor for equestrian sports and the helm of a leading newspaper enterprise. His descendants generously bequeathed the villa to the Deauville municipal council.
Inside, visitors can appreciate artworks by Enrico Campagnola and, more notably, the authentic furniture and décor from that era. It's a genuine journey into the past! For details on guided tours, click here.
On Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays (as well as Sundays from March through mid-November) or daily from the second week of July to the end of August, you can wander through the market at Place du Marché. Additionally, on Thursday mornings, there's the organic market located around the church of Saint-Augustin. If you've chosen a vacation rental over a hotel, you'll have a splendid opportunity to whip up delicious dishes, or bring back fresh produce to savor after your weekend getaway!
Guided Tour of Deauville
If you understand French, you can embark on a guided bike tour that explores both Deauville and Trouville. This experience is presented by Cycles Lecoq, under the moniker "Les Balades de la Côte Fleurie".
These tours are crafted for casual riders, with frequent stops, primarily along quieter back roads, and enriched with stories and facts about the region and its storied past.
A Multitude of Other Activities
Deauville also offers:
- An evening at the casino, which remains open well into the night. Established in 1912, Deauville's casino not only provides slot machines, table games (like blackjack and English roulette), and poker but also showcases live entertainment and houses a café, bar, and restaurant.
- Shopping - With upscale brands such as Hermès, Longchamp, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Jacadi, and many more awaiting.
- Golf - Take, for instance, the 18-hole Golf de l'Amirauté. It offers the rare thrill of nighttime golfing, complemented by several other nearby golf courses.
The town also brims with a variety of bars to elongate your evenings.
For those seeking a bit of adventure, hiking up the hill to Vieux Deauville (the historic center) will reward you with a unique panorama of the town!
What to Explore Around Deauville
While Deauville is a perfect weekend retreat, if you're planning a longer stay, the surrounding region has much to offer!
Just across a bridge, you can explore the picturesque neighboring town of Trouville, which would be a regret to overlook.
Not far off is Honfleur, a personal favorite of mine, boasting its delightful Vieux Bassin and quaint narrow streets.
Other accessible destinations include towns like Villers-sur-Mer, Houlgate, and Cabourg. Additionally, Lisieux and Caen are just short drives away.
Where to Stay in Deauville?
Deauville is home to several iconic hotels awaiting your reservation:
- Le Royal Deauville, established in 1913;
- Le Normandy, another gem from the Barrière group, founded in 1912;
- Hôtel du Golf, an additional Barrière masterpiece, inaugurated in 1929.
All three are legendary in their own right.
There are numerous other lodging choices, including the exquisite Manoir des Lions de Tourgéville, just 4.35 miles from Deauville, providing a tranquil, luxurious ambiance. There's also the Novotel Deauville Plage, conveniently located near Les Planches and the harbor.
For the budget-conscious, there are economically priced hotels that remain a hit among visitors:
- Le Chantilly, just a 10-minute stroll from the beach and railway station;
- Hôtel Le Patio, a quaint 13-room hotel boasting a charming terrace, only 5 minutes from the city center;
- Hôtel de la Côte Fleurie, featuring rooms each uniquely adorned in the regional style.
Prime Dining and Drinking Spots in Deauville
The town is teeming with exceptional eateries, ensuring you're spoilt for choice! A few noteworthy mentions include Le Jardin brasserie (5 rue Hoche), Le Bistrot des Planches (3 rue Sem), and for seafood lovers, the Augusto restaurant (27 rue Désiré Le Hoc). Seeking a more sophisticated gastronomic adventure? Look no further than the Michelin-starred L'Essentiel (rue Mirabeau).
For a brunch, consider visiting Le Square (182 avenue de la République) or Athanor (3 Place Gabrielle Chanel).
Satisfy your sweet tooth at François Gayet's patisserie (rue du Général Leclerc) or indulge in some pancakes at Chez Nany crêperie.
For vibrant nightlife, Les Sales Gosses (21 rue Breney) and L'Équilibriste (52 rue Mirabeau) are the places to be.
I trust this guide offers all you need for an unforgettable weekend in Deauville. I must admit, I'm not the town's biggest enthusiast, despite my multiple visits.
In France, I'm more smitten by the quaint allure of places like Trouville or Honfleur – purely a matter of personal preference. Nevertheless, Deauville remains a convenient seaside escape for those residing in Paris. Some even affectionately dub the town as the "21st arrondissement of Paris" :)
