Visiting the Bois de Boulogne: Walks, Lakes & Things to Do

The Bois de Boulogne is located to the west of Paris, between Neuilly-sur-Seine, Boulogne-Billancourt, and the 16th arrondissement, and is one of the largest green spaces in the capital. It is one of those Parisian places you may feel you already know because of its reputation, without ever having properly explored it. People come here to walk along the lakes, go cycling, visit Bagatelle Park or the Auteuil Greenhouses, enjoy a family-friendly outing, or simply escape the city for a while.

In this article, I take a practical, balanced look at the Bois de Boulogne: its reputation, its history, the main sights, the most pleasant walks, the easiest ways to get there, and a few tips for visiting comfortably and safely, whether you're visiting alone, as a couple, or with children.

Is the Bois de Boulogne safe to visit?

The Bois de Boulogne is known for prostitution at night, but during the day it is also a popular place for Parisians to walk, run, and spend time outdoors.

For seven years, I lived in a building in Neuilly-sur-Seine overlooking the Bois de Boulogne and often walked there. So let's start by looking at some of the misconceptions surrounding the area, because its reputation for prostitution often overshadows everything it has to offer walkers.

Understanding the reputation of the Bois de Boulogne

The Bois de Boulogne has quite a reputation… it is one of France's best-known areas for street prostitution. This is a reality: prostitution has long been present in parts of the Bois, mainly in the evening and at night. Depending on the source, the number of sex workers in the Bois is estimated at between 100 and 180, most of them women and trans people. Many come from South America and have experienced difficult circumstances before working there.

Obviously, I am not going to encourage you to go wandering around the Bois de Boulogne in the middle of the night. Not because of the sex workers themselves, many of whom are in vulnerable situations, but because some areas become much more isolated and sometimes attract opportunistic crime. As in any large, quiet urban area at night, it is better to stay cautious.

This reputation for prostitution has been part of the image of the Bois de Boulogne for a very long time. Yet it does not define the Bois as a whole. During the day, in the busiest areas, the Bois feels much more like a huge urban park where families, athletes, and nature lovers come to walk.

What does the Bois de Boulogne look like during the day?

During the day, the Bois de Boulogne is primarily a place where families, athletes, and Parisians go for a walk when they want some fresh air. You will come across runners, cyclists, parents with strollers, dog walkers, and groups of friends walking along the lakes or having picnics on the lawns.

Some areas are more isolated, but if you stay on the main paths and near the main attractions (Bagatelle, the Auteuil Greenhouses, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, the lakes), you'll generally find the atmosphere peaceful.

Why visit the Bois de Boulogne?

The Bois de Boulogne, a large urban park, is much more than just a Parisian park. Spread across 846 hectares (about 3.3 sq miles), it feels surprisingly green and spacious despite being right on the edge of the city. Whether you feel like walking for several hours, spending time outdoors with your family, or simply relaxing by the water, it is one of the most pleasant green spaces in Paris.

Its size plays a big part in this feeling of getting away from the city. At 846 hectares, the Bois de Boulogne is more than twice the size of Central Park in New York (341 hectares / about 1.3 sq miles) and Hyde Park in London (142 hectares / about 0.55 sq miles). You can walk long distances, but there are also 28 kilometers of trails dedicated to horse riders (about 17 miles) and 15 kilometers of bike paths (about 9 miles). If you really enjoy walking, running, or cycling for long stretches without retracing your steps, it is a huge outdoor playground.

The Bois de Boulogne also includes the Auteuil and Longchamp racetracks and several places that are worth a visit in their own right: the Parc de Bagatelle and its rose garden, the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, not to mention the nearby Fondation Louis Vuitton. You can therefore easily combine a walk with a cultural visit or a family-friendly activity.

And if you enjoy photography or simply pleasant walks, the Bois de Boulogne changes noticeably with the seasons.

In spring, the trees turn green again and the nearby gardens fill with flowers. In summer, some paths give off that distinctive smell of dry wood and vegetation warmed by the sun, while the lakes offer a few welcome pockets of cool air.

When autumn arrives, twigs crack beneath your feet, yellow leaves rustle underfoot, every sound seems muted, and fine rain catches in the treetops. It smells of damp earth and wet wood, and the air becomes a little cooler in the shade of the tall trees.

In winter, I even had the chance to see the lakes completely frozen during a severe cold spell, a rather rare sight in Paris.

That seasonal variety is part of its appeal: you can go back several times a year and it never looks quite the same.

What to do in the Bois de Boulogne?

The Bois de Boulogne is large enough to fill half a day, or even a full day. Between walks around the lakes, remarkable gardens, sports activities, restaurants, and family-friendly outings, there is something for almost everyone.

Spend a day at the Jardin d'Acclimatation

If you visit the Bois de Boulogne with children, this is probably the best option. The Jardin d'Acclimatation combines rides, playgrounds, animals, landscaped gardens, and shows in a pleasant setting. I have taken my son there several times, and it is exactly the kind of place where you lose track of time.

Stroll through the Parc de Bagatelle

Located on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, the Parc de Bagatelle is well worth visiting if you have a few hours. Created at the end of the 18th century after a bet between the Count of Artois and Marie Antoinette, Parc de Bagatelle is now one of the most beautiful green spaces in Paris.

People come here for its famous rose garden, its little romantic bridges, its follies scattered throughout the park, its peacocks wandering freely, and its atmosphere, which is much calmer than that of the best-known large Parisian gardens. In spring and early summer, the blooms are particularly spectacular, but the park stays pleasant all year round thanks to its varied landscaping.

I am particularly fond of Bagatelle for its slightly timeless feel. While the Bois de Boulogne can sometimes feel like a huge urban park, here it feels more like walking through the garden of a country château. It is also one of the most photogenic places in the area.

If you are planning a day in the Bois de Boulogne, I'd recommend that you combine a walk around Lac Inférieur with a visit to Bagatelle: the two work very well together.

Visit the Auteuil Greenhouses

At the southern end of the woods, the Auteuil greenhouses are among the most beautiful gardens in Paris. Behind their elegant 19th-century metal structures, you will find collections of tropical plants, palm trees, cacti, and orchids. Even if you are not passionate about botany, the architecture alone makes it worth a visit.

Visit the Fondation Louis Vuitton

Near the Jardin d'Acclimatation stands one of the most spectacular buildings in Paris: the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Designed by the architect Frank Gehry, it regularly hosts major modern and contemporary art exhibitions.
Even if you are not an art lover, the building is striking, with its huge glass sails that seem to float above the trees of the Bois de Boulogne.

Have lunch in one of the Bois de Boulogne's landmark restaurants

The Bois de Boulogne is home to several well-known restaurants. You may already know the Chalet des Îles, set on the shore of Lac Inférieur, but it is not the only notable restaurant here.

The Pré Catelan, nestled in the heart of the woods, is one of the most prestigious fine-dining restaurants in Paris. It is housed in a pavilion built under Napoleon III, in the very heart of the Bois de Boulogne.

Even if you are not planning a Michelin-starred meal, it is useful to know that this historic pavilion exists: it adds to the unexpectedly elegant side of the Bois de Boulogne.

Run, cycle, and exercise outdoors

With its kilometers of paths, its bike lanes, and its vast green spaces, the Bois de Boulogne is a popular place for running, cycling, and other outdoor activities. You will easily come across runners, cyclists, walkers, and even rowers out on the lakes.

Go horseback riding in the Bois de Boulogne

Horseback riding is part of the historical identity of the Bois de Boulogne. Several equestrian centers (including L'Étrier de Paris, one of the main riding centers in the area) offer lessons and regular riding sessions in a remarkably green setting within Paris. With nearly 30 kilometers (about 19 miles) of bridle paths, the woods remain one of the few places in Paris where you still regularly see horses.

Attend a race at Longchamp or Auteuil

The Bois de Boulogne is home to two historic racetracks: Longchamp and Auteuil. Even if you do not particularly follow horse racing, the major events attract large crowds and create a distinctive atmosphere. The vast green spaces surrounding the tracks also give you a chance to see a lesser-known side of the woods.

The lakes of the Bois de Boulogne

The two large lakes in the Bois de Boulogne each offer a different atmosphere, and Lac Inférieur remains the most pleasant for a walk or a break by the water.

Lac Inférieur vs Lac Supérieur: which one to choose?

Lac Inférieur is by far the most popular and the most pleasant. It is surrounded by large trees, has a few small islands, and its banks are ideal for taking a break on a bench or going for a quiet walk.
Lac Supérieur, on the other hand, is next to the Paris ring road (périphérique). Even though a large part of the road is in a tunnel, you can still hear the traffic, which takes away from the experience a bit if you are hoping for a peaceful walk. By contrast, Lac Inférieur is calmer, greener, and feels much farther removed from the city. If you are only going to see one on a first visit, I would definitely recommend Lac Inférieur.

Rowboat ride on Lac Inférieur

When the weather is good, you can rent rowboats to go out on Lac Inférieur. The rental service is run by the Service des Bateaux du Bois de Boulogne and generally operates from early spring to the end of October, depending on the weather and water level. Each boat can take up to 4 people (children allowed, with life jackets required), and rentals are by the half-hour, from 30 minutes up to a total of 2 hours.

You'll need to leave a security deposit, either by check or in cash, before departure, and you pay when you return, based on the actual time you spent on the water. Allow about an hour to go all the way around the main island.

Eating by the water at the Chalet des Îles

You can eat in a scenic lakeside setting at Le Chalet des Îles, which, as its name suggests, is located on an island right in the middle of Lac Inférieur. To get there, you take a small ferry that crosses over from the shore, which makes the restaurant feel surprisingly removed from Paris for a few moments.
The place feels more like a countryside retreat: terrace by the water, views of the rowboats, large trees all around... You quickly forget that you are only a few minutes away from the Paris ring road.
For a quiet lunch or brunch in warmer weather, it is a place that is well worth a stop, even if you are paying for the setting. I also appreciate the fact that families are well catered for: the menu includes child-friendly options (and for once, kids aren't limited to the usual "steak and fries" option!) and the restaurant regularly organizes family brunches with entertainment and activities for younger children on Sundays. It is a particularly pleasant option if you are visiting the Bois de Boulogne as a family.

You can check opening hours, the menu, and make a reservation on the Chalet des Îles website.

How to get to the Bois de Boulogne?

The Bois de Boulogne is easily accessible by public transport from Paris. Depending on the areas you want to explore, several metro stations, train stations, and bus stops provide easy access to the main attractions in the park.

Here is a summary of the main access points to the Bois de Boulogne and which sights each one is best for.

The history of the Bois de Boulogne

Over the centuries, the Bois belonged to both the Crown and religious orders. Napoleon III eventually transferred it to the City of Paris in the mid‑19th century. It was at that time that the area was extensively redesigned to turn it into a large public park to the west of the capital.

Napoleon III wanted to model the Bois on London's Hyde Park with its river, the Serpentine. But the landscape architect overseeing the project made a huge blunder forgot that the land was not flat between the upper part of the woods (the area closest to Neuilly-sur-Seine) and the lower part (near Boulogne). A 6‑meter (about 20‑ft) difference in elevation… and there went the river plan.

The landscape architect was fired and replaced by the engineer behind the development of the Bois de Vincennes, Parc Monceau and Parc Montsouris. He abandoned the idea of a river and opted for two artificial lakes that still shape many of the walking routes through the Bois today: the Lac Supérieur (Upper Lake) in the south and the Lac Inférieur (Lower Lake) in the north.

The traveler's memo for visiting the Bois de Boulogne

Still have questions about visiting the Bois de Boulogne? Here are the practical answers.